The share of farmland used for organic production has grown quickly in many rich countries, according to a new report on agriculture and the environment from the OECD, a think-tank. Swiss farmers are among the keenest on organic food production: more than 10% of their agricultural land is devoted to organic farming, up from less than 2% in the mid-1990s. Austria, with a similar landscape to Switzerland, comes a close second in the OECD rankings. Outside Europe organic farming is less popular. In America it accounts for just 0.25% of the land under cultivation. Japan’s organic farms account for less than 1% of agricultural land. These countries drag down the OECD average to less than 2%.

Surprisingly Kazakhstan, the saviour of the UK organic livestock sector in 2007 with their 40,000 tonne of organic wheat does not appear on this list.

But then nor does China, the source of so much vegetable protein.